Very upgraded LPG Scimitar MV6 build

[loz]

Majic, I'm hoping for quite a bit of grip the tires are toyo T1-R 205/50/16. The braking torque is also effect by the piston area, so I've factored that in to the calculations.

Good point about pad size, this is something I'd not thought abotu, but using OEM calipers I'm kind of stuck with what I can buy for these calipers, I'll see how they fair up, the discs will be grooved and drilled from the start too.




Wow, might have made a school boy error with the calcs, its a function of piston area not diamter. So the new calcs look like this (pretty different in fact)



The new set up puts quite far from that of the M3 now, but there is a bias valve in the line to the rear so the rear brakes can be turned down a bit. Or if I was to buy the 324 mm front discs fromt eh Focus RS, then it would be back to being the same as the M3. I think i'll stick with the 300mm and turn the valve in a bit.

[loz]

Had a day ont he car yesterday

I've started making what I feel is the best solution to the problem of the front indicators. I can't seem to find a solution which doesn't look daft. So I'm hollowing out the main beam lamps and putting hte indicators in them.

I started grinding the original sealed beam jobbies, I was very surprised this worked at all, but then the heat got the better of them and the glass cracked.



So I moved onto the capri lights from ebay, these have metal backs so were much easier to work on.



Cut the back out.


And glued the mini style indicator lenses in. Its hard to photograph, it doesn't look wuite that orange when using your own eyes, but I'm already thinking I should have gone with clear lenses and orange bulbs, we'll see how they look on the car.



I spent a long time trying to trace an intermittent fault with the crank position sensor and got nowhere yet. I think I'm going to reroute the wire away from any other electrics incase its just picking up too much noise.

More to come.

[loz]

Had a day away from the car, but this evening I had a sneaky go in the garage and got the Lambda Bosses welded in, all SS, 1m from the back of the valve.




More to come, In fact its early I might go and get the LC-1 Lambda sensor computer thingy intalled.

[Relentless Rob]

Will you be upgrading to H.I.D's? You can get a set for the E30 that could be adapted to fit.

[loz]

Rob, I've got a set already in toe, but I'm still pondering whether or not to fit them from a legal point.

The outers are H4's anyway so there's no adapting needed, the inner headlamps are extras as it was.

I've got a 4300k kits so its not quite so obvious, but they're not self levelling and have no sprayers so strickly speaking I shouldn't really be fitting them.

I'll keep pondering

[Buddy]

Toyo T1R are excellent tyres loz, i've used them on lots of different cars and always been impressed by their longevity and grip in both wet and esp dry use, Another great tyre for the money is the Falken FK452.
We use both alot, and they haven't let us down yet!

[loz]

Buddy, I had proper budget second hand nasties on before, I'm looking forward to feeling the difference.

Got some quality time in this morning, Didn't move mountains but I'm please with progress.

I used some strips of SS that I picked up from the scrap yard some time ago (they were for SS tank straps, but I got loads just in case).

Bit of drilling, bending, cutting and welding and voila!

Left side



And the right side






They were mounted on top of the manifold in the omega, but this was too high for the scim. I was going to mount them further outboard on the inner wing area, but they really need to be on the engine so there is little relative movement between them and the engine, so as not to chaf the hoses.

Put the new SS exhaust studs in too. Couldn't be happier with these, they're got an allen key on one end so they're really easy to put in


More to come

[loz]

I had pretty much a whole day on the car yesterday, and I'm definately getting slower

Maybe its cos all the major miles stones have been reached, the body now sits on the redone chassis, the engine is it, and it now runs. Now I need to buckle down and get the hell on with the mass of little jobs left to get it finished.

I did lots yesterday but have little to show for it. Firstly, having been chatting on the omega forum, it seems the vauxhall thermostat open at a very high temperature, to the point where the engine is running around boiling point (save for the fact that its pressurised) for emission legislation, so the oil too runs hotter. So I got hold a "cool-stat" that starts opening at a much more resonable 82C.

So I pulled the inlet off and inlet runners needed moving to get this new thermostat in. Its right in the bottom of the V there behind the timing cover.



You can see the handsome shape of the V6 so much better without that horrible inlet manifold on it.


The other thing I finally got round to doing yesterday was the crank sensor. Its the bain of every after market ECU installer, its the thing that most often causes trouble with an aftermarket installation and I too have been bitten. There is an intermittent fault that shows up as a major but infrequent misfire. There is an LED on the ECU that changes fro green to red if it looses the Crank signal, and thats exactly what happens when it misfires. The ECU looses the signal so can't fire the sparks.

After reading up on it it seems the signal in the wire is very weak so can be lost in the "noise" of the surrounding wire even though its a shielded wire.

So I spent a long time taking this particular wire out of the engine loom, (the one that had taken ages to make neat by having all the sire go through one connector) and routing it away from all other wires and through a different area in the bulkhead. I resoldered the wires really close to the ECU so the sheild was in tact as far as possible. Here's the sensor wire going back from the engine to a point low in the bulkhead.


The result of my work...... It misfires more now AAAAGGGHHHHH

I did have the sensor out of the block to see if it was covered in metal deposite. So now I'm not sure if it is my meddling with the wires of the sensor itself thats messed it up.

Next port of call is to buy a brand new sensor, if that doesn't cure it the ECU will need to go back so they can adjust the "sensitivity something or other". I really hope the new sensor cures it.

I had to fix the lathe yesterday too, the inverter had started messing up the garage circiut breaker. With that now working my brother is sailing through his Capri brake upgrade, and my project has slowed accordingly to help.

My christmas holiday is evaporating with little to show for it

I might get one more day on it hopefully.

More to come

[Buddy]

Some more top work mate, the s/s tank straps are an excellent source of spare metal to have knocking around, get as much as you can, everytime mate!!

The MV6 has a very narrow Vee angle, is it 60*?

Still not as cool as the VW VR6 at 15* but as there's no Vee in the block, it shouldn't really count!!

[loz]

That VR6 motor is a very inovative design, I had a good look over one when I saw one open at a show.

V6's are normally 60 degrees, but this one is indeed narrower at 54 degrees.

[andrewg1323]

Capri brake upgrade eh? Whats he fitting?

[loz]

Well it was meant to be a simple bolt on job. We found a kit for the rear but it turns out the weld on bracket (which is very well made) falls in totally the wrong place so some massive strong extensions have had to be made to get the bracket to a suitable place for welding to the axle tube. This was an ebay special nearly a year ago, but we've only just got round to fitting it.

And for the front, we based this on the capri sport kits you can get but did it ourselves. Thing is I found the wrong discs totally, we've got focus discs that will fit behind his 13" wheels, but they're not "tall" enough so were having to make a large bracket to go between the Mondeo caliper and the mounts on the strut. It'll be a nice bit of engineering if we can pull it off, but its a pain in the arse to make. I'll put all the picks up when we're done.

There was a some thought that went into the brakes though the power front and rear should be spot on

[Buddy]

If you wanna see some cool Vee engines from VAG, check out the W8 or W12, pure genius!

[loz]

They're pretty awesome Buddy, The Bugatti Veyron, is a W jobby I think, they had the crank on show at the classic car show, thats a peice of engineering art work, its fantastic!

A little on my brothers Capri front brake upgrade for those that are interested


We talked it through and bought a whole load of different drill bits, a tap, some bolts, and some chunky 40x40mm steel bar. I had to go visiting down south so left my brother to it. He's done a cracking job, I'm full of brotherly pride

Here's the bar cut into two lengths


He then skimmed 6mm off on the lathe, taking them down to 40x36mm, the right size for the gap between the caliper and the mounts.


Then just as I do, he got all carried away as things started moving and didn't take any more photos till it was done. But hopefully you get the idea from the finished item. The steel block is bolted to the caliper, there are section ground out of the block to clear the hub and to clear the piston of the caliper.

The main problem that made it difficult is that the caliper can't be rotated up the disc as the mounting points on the strut foul on the caliper (see photos), so it can only be moved up or down from the intended position by a few degrees. For this reason the caliper bolts and the strut bolts, end up nearly on top of each other. To get round this he turned a little off the caliper bolts to fit them into a counter bore, if you know what I mean (picture speaks a thousand words).




More to come on the scim soon.

[owelly]

Lets hope your brother is better at maths than you...